lundi 29 octobre 2007
mardi 23 octobre 2007
vendredi 19 octobre 2007
Tanger
I've been a bit naive and pretentious to come here in Maroco, thinking I was gonna travel and discover the marocan society alone like you can do in a normal western country. Here are the things working differently and there's a lot of things you can't understand from outside.
The first days, I've been spending my time alone trying to visit and get in touch with the citizens, but it appears very difficult, all contacts you've got are superficial, people just want to make money on you and you hate that. If you're alone like me, you need to have friends, so you try to make some, but what they need here is not friend relation (they are anyway all friendly by nature here and it isn't something special for them to be nice to people) rather money. And that's all the problem about.
There's a so huge difference of whealthness, it's amazing. For my first time in a such country (different as a western's one), I was and still embarassed about this situation, you even shame yourself (I really didn't expected). It is oftenly so difficult for them and it's all the time so easy for us. There's a so bad repartition of things on the earth, it's impressive. We (western) have got money, plenty of, and we are so crazy about, that we're still looking for it, but we miss a lot of things more important than money, unfortunetly we're not facing it. What we are losing or actually missing is our culture, I mean our "savoir-vivre", our way of life. Here, it's so rich, people are really simple and they know how to drive their lives, with very simple things. The weather is nice, the landscape too (ok, you can't decide on it actually), what do you need more?
There's so beautiful things here, a big part of the products (not the moderns) are artisanal and there's a lot of diversity...what we don't know anymore in our industrials societies. You're getting used to buy serial products which got no character at all, they are not authentic, nothing personal, but you use them, you consum a lot of them ( losing your time ' cause you could product some of them), to fuel you're empty life which is actually missing of more consistant things, simple things.
Ok, I stop to be moralist. So, as I said I met Aziz. I was at the begining fondamently against to let me drag from a tourist guide or any charlatant. But I rapidly noticed that alone, you can't do anything here, and the way I met Aziz let me a good feeling about him, and my feeling had been very good too! I was walking on the street looking for a cheap hotel and I went in a café to ask my way, the waiter led me to a table where two 50 years old wise men were sitting. Aziz was with a english man talking and drinking coffee. They looked like some kind of artists (good point), and leaving the english man, I let Aziz helping me to find the right hotel in the Medina (the deep souk), knowing he will want to show me the whole city.
Aziz is actually musician, he's born here and knows everythings inTanger and knows a lot of people. He used to do the touristic guide during the 60's 70's, when there was a lot of young coming, but now he's not really doing it anymore. So he shows me the city, we walked hours in the medina, a real labyrinthe...
And it was actually the best"compromis" to do, 'cause first he infiltrates me in the marocan society, and second, he protects me from all the traps.
Sure I pay most of the things for us, because we do a lot, but for me, one euro to pay for two coffees it's nothing, for him it would be more difficult (and he's actually "working" for me, so it's normal). But he's not really working for me, it's more a friend relation than anything else. We go around, talk a lot, he learns me arabik, we play games, hear some marocan music and smoke the kiff...chilling out.
Some situations are so extrem that you think you're playing in a comedie film, it appears so funny, so unsensed, so unthinkable...but actually it isn't funny at all 'cause it's the day's reality for them. Did you ever drive in a old shity Mercedes taxi during 30 km with 8 people on board? I just did! and some of the 8 were fat, what made it complicated.
I've lot of others exemples which are very funny.
These holidays was needed for me, it brings me a lot of wellness, and a lot of thoughts.
PS: the french president is coming on monday.
mercredi 17 octobre 2007
ChefChaouen

Aujourd'hui je suis allé visité ChefChaouen, ville à 60 km au sud de Tétouan, très sympa mais bon comme d'hab, malgré mes divers stratagèmes et esquives, on m'a encore enmerdé. Ca aussi c'est pas mal, peu importe la langue que tu parles, les mecs arriveront à te parler, tu pourrais parler russe ou chinois, je suis sûr qu'ils arriveraient à te parler!
Bon sinon rien de spécial, si, jme suis fait des amis, enfin des gens avec qui j'ai pû parler (en arabe, donc on a pas trop parlé...) et qui n'étaient pas intéressés, c'était vraiment cool et reposant. On a du mal à s'imaginer la vie ici, mais c'est bel et bien la réalité. On a l'impression que c'est une mise en scène, par exemple quand on voit une poule qui se balade sous le bureau du mec qui vous vend le ticket de bus, le flic qui salut un conducteur avec une voiture à vitres cassées ou alors quand on voit une auto-ecole qui se balade dans cette jungle sans panneau et apparement sans règles, mais nan, ce n'est pas un rêve, c'est comme ça 24 su 24, 365 sur 365.

Mais bon, ce côté bien à l'arrache me plaît beaucoup car les gens sont par consequent vraiment beaucoup plus humain, parfois un peu trop sauvage mais dans le fond très sympa. Pour preuve je ne me suis pas fait aggréssé du tout, physiquement ou verbalement (et vous inquiétez pas les insultes arabes jles connait!).
Petite anecdote de la fin; sur le trajet de retour à Tetouan dans le bus, mon voisin de siège n'a pas arrêté de vomir (dans un sac bien sur), ça nous rappele que tout le monde n'a pas forcement l'habitude de se déplace en véhicule motorisé (oui ici y'a l'ânemobile)...qlq ch qui ne m'était jamais venue à l'esprit.
Le plus drôle! parfois on entend dans les avions, après un attérissage réussi, des gens qui applaudissent. Ici, après un voyage de plus d'une heure dans les routes sinueuses et montagneuses, lorsqu'on a commencé à apercevoir les lumières de Tétouan, certains on applaudis. Ca aussi j'avais jamais pû l'imaginer! faut dire qu'avec les moyens du bord, c'est vrai qu'il vaut mieux croire en dieu...inshaala!

Tetouan

As you noticed in my last message, I was almost about to leave maroco yesterday, but now I'm feeling much better and get used to things here.
It's very special here, especially if you're alone. It isn't dangerous at all, most people are kind to me, it's just a bit riski. The main problem is that people recognize you every where you go, you could care specials clothes or hide you, they would recognize you too. They see how you act, how you move and how you look at things...and as a foreign person in Maroco, you're surprised about all the things you discover...and this is what makes you a tourist, and especially a potential target.
Don't be surprised if there's no pictures, I just prefer not to take them, it's just complicated.
In Tetouan, most people speaks actually spanish (because the former colonies) but lots speaks also french.
How does Tetouan looks like?
there's the Medina (the old part) and there's downtown. In downtown you will find a huge amount of cafe, and salon de thé but no restaurants. There's also a lot of barber (I don't know why, maybe barts are growing faster here!?) and some of shoes cleaner in the street. You will also find every 50 m a call center, there's phones every where here!

The Medina is the old part of the city (16th century), it's like a big labyrinthe of very small streets going up and down. There you'll find the people of the old marocan culture, it's a bit wild, but I survived! What amazing is, is the artisanals works, all what you'll finf there is self made or self repared, there no industrial things. There is really beautiful things here, and I'm really impressed to see that with nothing you can do all.
The problem is that sellers are to kind, if you're curious about somethings (you have to, it's so interesting), just to look at, they will think that you want to buy or that you could buy, so they will not let you in peace, and that's really embarassing.
Other thing, it's really tiring to have so much people in the streets and so loud, etc I didn't get used to in Berlin.

mardi 16 octobre 2007
Marocco
Après avoir roulé toute la nuit en bus de Madrid jusqu'à Algeciras, j'ai pris le ferry et suis arrivé ce marin à 9h à Ceuta. Je me suis un peu baladé dans la ville et ne trouvais pas ça très dépaysant, normal, je n'étais pas encore au Maroc! J'ai dû prendre un bus à 65 cts jusqu'à la frontière pour découvrir le vrai maroc. J'ai pas encore passé la frontière que j'aperçois déjà des mecs emprisonnés dans des cellules qui donnent sur la rue. Tout le monde me dévisage et me saute dessus, le douanier me souhaite bonne chance et me dit d'être prudent lorsqu'il me laisse passer.
Putain heureusement qu'ils parlent un peu français ici sinon je serais déjà mort! C'est vraiment à l'arrache.com ici, des sauvages! Quand je passe la frontière, une horde de taxi me sautent dessus, je leur répond d'abord que je n'ai pas besoin de taxi afin d'en écarter quelques uns, ça marche!mais restent ceux qui arrivent à me parler en français, je leur dit que je veux aller à Tanger et me ils proposent 40euros, je leur fait les gros yeux et leur dit de m'enmener à la ville la plus proche...Tétouan à 30km pour 10 euros, ce qui est 5 fois le prix normal ici, mais reste cependant pour 10 fois moi cher qu'en europe.
Je vais rester presque deux semaines ici au Maroc, et je crois que j'ai tout de suite saisi la difficulté de mon séjour; ne pas me faire passer pour un gringo, difficile avec ma tête!
va falloir que je me déguise ou que je trouve une autre solution, les gens croient vraiment que je suis riche, c'est dingue!
Bon désolé si il n'y a pas de photo mais je n'ose pas trop sortir mon appareil face aux charettes tirées par de pauvres petits vieux, mais sinon ouais c'est super beau!
bises à tous


